Lost Worlds: Sicily

Cefalù lies along the route. the picturesque port occupies a narrow strip of land between the sea and a towering cliff. The Norman cathedral dating back to the 12th century is one of the city's main sites.

The most scenic stretch of coast right begins where the motorway turns off towards the interior. We therefore advise taking a detour to the Capo Peloro at the tip of the Strait of Messina. The main attraction in Messina is the Church of the Annunziata dei Catalani. The 12th century cathedral has survived the numerous earthquakes that have rocked the city. You will approach Taormina at the foot of Mount Etna with views of the mainland to your left.

The motorway runs parallel to the coast past the not particularly scenic city of Catania. The sight of Mount Etna in the near distance helps to make up for the less attractive view of the urban landscape. The short leg allows time for a trip up the active volcano: The ascent by car ends at Rifugio Sapienza (2,500 m or 8,200 ft). From there an excursion to the top by cable car and jeep can be booked for about 50 euros per person, which includes a guided walk around the smouldering craters just below the peak. The walk is suitable for anyone in reasonably good shape.

Key sites along the southern coast include Ragusa, the ancient city that seems perched on the side of a cliff, the Villa Romana di Casale, a palace built by a wealthy Roman patrician near the cities of Piazza Armerina and Enna, which is referred to as the "Balcony of Sicily" because of its lofty location and its fabulous view of the southern coast.

The leg will take you to the fertile, western end of the island. The section of the coastline around Agrigento is still scarred by some misguided development projects from the 1960s intended to propel Italy's poorhouse into the 21st century. Just past Secca Grande you may want to take a detour into the mountains for a visit to Caltabellotta, one of the oldest villages on the island. According to Greek mythology, Daedalus landed on the cliff above the town after flying from Crete with homemade wings to escape the Minotaur. The caves at the bottom of the cliff contains signs of prehistoric civilization.

The first part of the route runs past the Golfo di Castellamare. The west side of the cape between San Vito and Scopello, called Zingaro, is one of the few nature preserves in Sicily. Fantastic hiking paths lead along the coast. Traffic will steadily increase as you approach Palermo, Sicily's lively cultural centre.