Germany's South: Rhine River, Bavaria, Black Forest

The town in Lower Franconia lies at the conflu­ence of the Main and Aschaff rivers in the very west of the Spes­sart region. The old town is dominated by an imposing Renais­sance building, the red sand­stone facades of which are reflected in the River Main. Orig­inally, Johannisburg Castle was the seat of the electors of Mainz. Together with the colle­giate church and the Main bridge, which was an important customs station in the Middle Ages, it forms a listed ensemble that covers most of the old town.

Magnif­i­cent half-timbered build­ings char­ac­terize the image of the Old Town on the Main. The nucleus of the city was the church of St. Michael. Together with the surrounding build­ings, the church was forti­fied in the early Middle Ages, which can still be seen today in the walled-in area and the small gate to Kapuzin­ergasse. The Kurmainzer castle with its four towers was built in 1340 by Count of Rieneck and later provided with ditch and wall, both of which are still well preserved. The people of Lohr claim that Snow White was born in the castle. In any case, it has been housing the Spes­sart Museum since 1972.

Only a short distance from the Würzburg's old town, with its crooked half-timbered houses, narrow streets and beau­tiful squares, lies the bishop's resi­dence in an exten­sive and beau­tiful park. The work of Baltasar Neumann resulted in one of the most magnif­i­cent build­ings of the Baroque period and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The immense and marvelous staircase is overwhelming. To this day the 600-square-foot vaulted painted ceiling boasts the largest ceiling fresco in the world. After appre­ciating the artworks one of the many wine bars of the old town invite you to enjoy a glass of Bocksbeutel.

Iphofen lies at the foot of the Schwanberg surrounded by vine­yards and ancient villages. The first Silvaner vine was planted in the area in 1692. Founded in 751, the enchanting town still features narrow cobbled streets and timber-frame houses (Fachw­erkhäuser) enclosed by a mighty town wall. The numerous wine festivals are held in front of the baroque city hall. Although almost as well-preserved as Rothenburg, Iphofen is less well known and thus less touristy. Many hiking trails lead into the nearby Steigerwald.

This entertaining one-hour tour of old town with Rothenburg ob der Tauber's night-watchman informs about the history of Rothenburg: from its beginn­ings to the mirac­u­lous protec­tion from the bombard­ments during World War II.

A tour of the Franco­nian Open-Air Museum is like a journey through time – through 700 years of Franco­nian everyday history: more than 100 build­ings, farms, craftsmen's houses, mills, brew­eries, sheep farms, an office building, school building and noble castles as well as barns, stables, bakeries and drying houses convey how the rural popu­la­tion of Franconia lived and worked in earlier times. The houses are arranged in six groups, so that one can walk from village to village just like in past times. Guided tours and changing events from bread baking and basket weaving to fencing courses take place.

Germany's most famous and popular holiday route offers charming landscapes, historic cities and castles along the way. It starts at the Main river and passes through western Franconia, Bavarian Swabia, and Upper Bavaria before reaching the edge of the Alps in the eastern part of the Allgäu. It covers 413 kilome­ters between the city of Würzburg and Neuschwanstein Castle. Sights along the way include the Würzburg Resi­dence, the medieval towns of Rothenburg ob der Tauber and Dinkelsbühl, the Fuggerei in Augsburg, and the town of Landsberg am Lech, with its historic old town and its Wieskirche.

The small town with its late baroque townscape is surrounded by forests and meadows. Kaspar Hauser lived in the city until he was murdered in 1833. The enigmatic boy had suddenly appeared in 1830 and could not speak any language. Later he said that he had grown up all alone in a room and had received bread and water through a flap. The case caused an interna­tional outcry and gave rise to numerous conspiracy theo­ries.
Partic­u­larly worth seeing is the Court Garden and the Resi­dence, a magnif­i­cent Baroque palace, which was given its present form in the 18th century.

The Kurhaus is the only remaining theater with this kind of glas and cast-iron construc­tion from the end of the 19th century, when German indus­trialism was on the rise. The building was designed in 1886 by Jean Keller to serve as a theater for the Hessian “Ortho­pedic Sanato­rium,” which was world-famous at the time. This historic theater hosts a variety of events almost every day. When not in use, it is open to the public from 9 am to 6 pm.

A visit to the castle that Elector Ferd­inand Maria once gave his wife on the occa­sion of the birth of the heir to the throne is a journey through time to the Bavarian monarchy. Two shady avenues lead to the castle, between them lies the Nymphenburg Canal. In summer it belongs to the swans, in winter to the ice skaters. At the end the half a kilometer wide castle rises. The 230-hectare English castle park with its streams, canals and bridges looks like a fairy tale forest. Today the castle houses four museums.

The semicircular Karlsplatz, better known as Stachus, is the gateway to Munich's trendy pede­s­trian zone. Here you can find several S-, U- and tram lines, cars, buses, cyclists and pede­s­trians. Some only want to cross the old town, others start their city stroll here in the pede­s­trian zone. Or go shopping in the Stachus Passagen. The large fountain with its water jets invites you to cool off on hot summer's days.

The Gothic cathedral and city parish church “Zu Unserer Lieben Frau” dating back to the 15th century is the landmark of the city. The nave is 109 meters long, 40 meters wide and 37 meters high and is said to accommo­date 20,000 people. The 100 meter high towers with the so called “Welschen Hauben” are based on the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. From the south tower of the Frauenkirche one has a magnif­i­cent view over the city. The footprint in the entrance hall is called the Devil's Step. The devil himself is said to have stood here because he had bet with master builder Jörg von Halspach for his soul. The church regu­larly gives organ concerts, has several choirs and its own cathedral singing school.

On June 14, 1738, the farmer's wife Maria Lory saw tears in the eyes of a wooden figure depicting the suffering Jesus at the scourge column. This miracle soon attracted thou­sands of pilgrims. For the"Pilgrimage to the Scourged Saviour on the Meadow" a new church became neces­sary: the Wieskirche. From 1745 to 1754 Dominikus Zimmer­mann created the oval church, which nowa­days is regarded as Rococo of the highest perfec­tion. Today the Wieskirche is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and attracts one million visitors from all over the world every year, espe­cially on the Festival of the Tears of Christ on the Sunday following 14 June. Concerts take place during summer.

From the Wieskirche the Brettlesweg runs through the Wiesfilz. The board­walk leads through a moist bog with many ponds. After a few minutes you reach the Schönegger Käsealm, where you can buy several dozen kinds of cheese, sausage, fresh hay milk and farm­house bread. Every­thing is from their own produc­tion. Or you can enjoy a Schönegger Brotzeit (snack) at one of the sunny tables. (There and back: 3.4 kilome­ters, 1:30 hour, up and down 52 meters)

The health resort on the northern edge of the Allgäu Alps is crossed by the River Vils and consists of 13 indi­vidual villages. The landmark is the late baroque church of St. Nicholas in Pfronten-Berg. From Pfronten-Steinach a cable car takes you to the Hochalpe (1502 m) and from there a chairlift goes on to the Breit­enberg (1838 m). From there you have a beau­tiful view in all direc­tions.

Hohenschwangau Castle, then also known as Schwanstein Castle, was first mentioned in docu­ments in the 12th century. It was owned by the Knights of Schwangau until the 16th century, after which it changed hands several times and was severely damaged in various wars. In 1832 the later King Maxi­m­ilian II, father of King Ludwig II, acquired it and had it rebuilt in the neo-Gothic style according to orig­inal plans. The Bavarian royal family used Hohenschwangau as a summer and hunting resi­dence. King Ludwig II spent his child­hood here and used it as his summer resi­dence until his death in 1886.

Three miles south of Füssen at the foot of the Alps lies the fairy tale castle Neuschwanstein built by King Ludwig II. One of the most popular tourist destina­tions in Germany, its design was inspired by stage deco­ra­tions used for two Wagner operas, Tannhäuser and Parzival. The King, also known as “Ludwig the Mad”, was offi­cially declared insane before the castle's comple­tion in 1896 and he drowned under myste­r­ious circum­stances in Lake Starnberg in southern Bavaria shortly after being removed from power. Consequently, no one has ever lived in the castle. Tours can be taken through several rooms, including the Throne Room and the Singers' Hall. The best views of the castle can be had from the Marienbrücke (Mary's Bridge).

On the border between Germany and Austria lies the 1,986 meter high Aggenstein. From the Breit­enbergbahn base station you can hike along a scenic trail to the Bad Kissinger hut. The last part to the summit is a secured climb. You can take a break at the Bad Kissinger hut. The ascent to the summit requires sure-foot­ed­ness and concen­tra­tion. At the top you have a pano­ramic view over the Tannheimer mountains. On your way down you pass the Hochalphütte, where you can stop again. (return: 10.7 kilome­ters, 5 hours, up and down: 1172 meters)

The waterfall near Füssen is a unique natural monu­ment of the Bavarian Alps. The water masses of the River Lech, fed from the Alps, plunge over five steps twelve metres into the depth. Below the Lech Falls, the river narrows and enters the Lech Gorge. It is the only one in the entire Bavarian Alpine region through which a larger Alpine river can still flow freely and unim­peded by man. From the Lechfall car park you can take a tour of the royal castles, which leads to Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau through magnif­i­cent landscape. (return: 13 kilome­ters, 6 hours, up and down 522 meters)

The 1178 meter high Oberjochpass is only a few hundred meters away from the Austrian border. It is an important link between the Allgäu and Tyrol. Those who drive the winding Jochs­traße between Hinde­lang and Oberjoch, can already marvel at the view of the Allgäuer Alps, while Hinde­lang and Oberdorf lie below.

The natural lake to the west of Immenstadt covers nearly 2.5 square kilome­tres and is crossed by the river Konstanzer Ach. Other trib­utaries are the hill­side streams in the south. An area of outstanding natural beauty has been estab­lished all around the lake. The Alpsee is great for sailing and surfing because of the valley running east­wards offering passage for the prevailing west­erly winds. This often leads to strong turbu­lence; the wind direc­tion can change very quickly. There are bathing opportu­ni­ties in three places: on the south-west, south-east and eastern shore.

From the 9th century to 1805, for around 1000 years the village belonged to the monastery of Sankt Gallen; it was only during the secu­lari­sa­tion under Napoleon that it became part of Bavaria. Ober­staufen became famous for its Schroth therapy. From 1949 the natur­o­pathic treat­ment with certain drinking and dry days, which dates back to a Johann Schroth (1798-1856), was offered in the local spa house. Today Ober­staufen is the largest health resort in the Allgäu. Worth seeing is the local history museum in a farm­house from 1788.

North­east of Sonthofen, the Starzlach has dug a wild and romantic ravine for many thou­sands of years. The torrent rises at an alti­tude of 1070 metres and then rushes through the picturesque gorge. It plunges over several waterfalls, which provide cool­ness in summer and freeze to bizarre ice curtains in winter. Wooden footbridges, rock stairs and even shorter tunnels have made the wild gorge acces­sible. (return 2:30 hours, 3,6 kilome­ters, up and down 250 meters)

The 1,834 meter high mountain is the highest peak of the foothills of the Allgäu Alps. Because of its exposed loca­tion it is easy to reach and offers a great view of the mountains and the lush green foothills from above.  The Hochgratbahn leads up the mountain. One can, for example, take the cable car up the hill and, on the way back, walk to the valley station via the Nagelfluhkette. (return: 11.3 kilome­ters, 4:30 hours, up and down: 960 meters)

This town on the northern shore of Lake Constance named after the first King of Württem­berg was only estab­lished in 1811. Because of free trade priv­i­leges with Switz­er­land the city grew rapidly and attracted indus­trial­ists and tourists, including the Russian Tsar Alexander II. In the early 20th century the Graf von Zeppelin from Konstanz set up his airship factory in Friedrichshafen. This was converted into arms facto­ries in the Third Reich, but today they belong to Airbus.

Due to its magnif­i­cent gardens and park­land the 45-hectare island at Konstanz is also known as “Island of Flowers”. The favor­able climate contributes to the thriving of palm trees and other trop­ical plants. In March the flower season opens with an orchid exhi­bi­tion. There­after blos­soming tulips, narcissi and hyacinths have a turn to show off their beauty before being replaced by rhodo­dendrons and azaleas. Summer is the time for roses and in autumn the dahlias develop their splendor. In the all-year-open butterfly house one can stroll around at 26 degrees and 90 percent humidity, marveling at the exotic vegeta­tion and cascading waterfalls.

The open-air museum with 23 recon­structed houses from the Stone Age is located directly on Lake Constance. In the replica pile dwellings on the edge of a nature reserve, the history of the early farmers and traders in the foothills of the Alps is shown in six villages. On footbridges you enter the world of the Neolithic and Bronze Age. During a tour one can learn a lot about everyday life 3000 to 6000 years ago. How was fire made or flour ground? Touching is not forbidden, but encour­aged to enhance the learning expe­r­i­ence.

Towering above Lake Constance is the local hill of Singen, crowned by a ruin. The 693 meter high Hohentwiel offers great views: From the impres­sive fortress the eye roams from Lake Constance across the rolling hills of the Hegau to the chain of summits of the Swiss Alps. For the last 9,000 years people have been settling on these slopes of the volcanic mountain. Farmers from the Neolithic period, artists from the Bronze Age and the Celts have all left their traces. A short one-hour walk leads from downtown Singen to the summit.

The glacial lake dating back to the last ice age was enlarged in 1930 with a dam wall which raised its level by 30 meters. Today it is the largest lake in the Black Forest. The Schluchsee is popular with swimmers and sailors. In contrast to the Titisee the shore it is easily acces­sible from almost everywhere. Many hiking trails skirt the lake. An 18-kilometer-long level trail around it is also suit­able for parents with prams. From May to October the walks can be combined with boat trips.

The lake surrounded by beau­tiful forests has, according to legend, waters of immeasur­able and imper­ceptible depth. When trying to measure it, a voice from the bottom resounds: “You fathom me out, I will drown you.” But in actual fact the ice age lake at an alti­tude of 850 meters is only 20 meters deep. Large predatory fish such as pike and lake trout, as well as eels and many other small species live in its nutrient-poor waters. A hiking trail leads around the two-kilometer long lake. Swimming, sailing and pedal boating are also possible.

More than 50 display boards inform about the biocoenoses in the mixed forest, among them the bats, the forest mush­rooms and the birds in the Upper Black Forest. Anyone can take part in a forest quiz. The trail starts at the Felsenweg. From there it cont­inues across the Scheibenfelsen to the sports field of Häusern. Passing the sports field, we follow the signs. A short detour to the Fuchsfelsen (Fox Rock) is optional. From there you have a wonderful view. Through Gold­egasse we return to the starting point. (return: 2 kilome­ters, 1 hour, up and down: 30 meters)

There have been glass­works in the remote Windberghochtal ever since the 12th century. Their fragile prod­ucts were trans­ported with great care through the Black Forest. The glass carriers with their custom-made “backpack cupboards” were special­ized in this. The hike passes several huts and leads through a magnif­i­cent wilder­ness with waterfalls and ancient forest. In good weather you have a wonderful view up to the Alps. (return: 14.1 kilome­ters, 5 hours, up and down: 372 meters)

To the south of Freiburg lies a mountain peak called Schauins­land (“look into the country”); with 1284 meters one of the best view­points in the Black Forest. Espe­cially in the fall, when the mountains rise “above the clouds” pheno­m­enal views open up: to the Vosges, the Hornisgrinde and the Bernese Alps, even to Mont Blanc. Those who do not want to hike to the summit can take the Schauins­land-Tram.

North of Freiburg lies the Kais­er­stuhl (“Emperor's Chair”), a group of hills that rise up from the Rhine Valley. Its name is most likely owed to King Otto III, who held court at Sasbach in 994 and later became emperor. Germany's warmest region is famous for its white wines, but also for its great variety of orchids. Wild hyacinths grow between the vines, irises bloom on the slopes and green lizards and mantises live in the meadows. The best way to explore this sunny area is on foot via the 22-kilometer Kais­er­stuhl-Path which leads from Endingen to Ihringen.

Germany's highest waterfalls, the famous Black Forest Railway, as well as being a year-round fog-free loca­tion make Triberg a popular and worthwhile holiday destina­tion. The area around the entrance to the waterfalls is remi­nis­cent of Disney­land. Here and in the town center shops offer cuckoo clocks, carv­ings, souvenirs, Black Forest ham and cherry brandy (Kirschwasser). To a large extent the quality prod­ucts are handcrafted, but the plastic cuckoo clock ‘made in Taiwan’ can be found here as well. Also worth seeing is the Black Forest Museum which is located near the lower entrance of the waterfalls.  For those who want to escape the hustle and bustle – the country­side around Triberg is fantastic and only a few hundred meters away you won’t see or hear either the cuckoo clocks or woodcarv­ings.

At 1,493 metres, Feldberg is not only the highest mountain in the Black Forest but also in Germany not counting the Alps. A nature reserve has been estab­lished around the summit with its subpolar vegeta­tion. Espe­cially during inver­sion weather condi­tions during winter you have sensa­tional views. Then the Vosges mountains pile up on the other side of the cloudy sea, while in the south the snow-capped Alps glitter – from the Zugspitze to the Bernese Upper Alps. In the House of Nature, which also serves as the admin­is­tra­tive seat of the Southern Black Forest Nature Park, there is a perma­nent, inter­ac­tive exhi­bi­tion. Behind the house begins the nature trail “Wichtelpfad im Auer­hahnwald”. (return: 2.2 kilome­ters, 0:45 hours, up and down 60 meters)

The capital of Alsace (Elsaß) on the western bank of the Upper Rhine is located at the meeting place of two cultures and is not the seat of the Euro­pean Parlia­ment only by chance. The Roman settle­ment quickly devel­oped into an important trading center and was one of the most splendid cities of the German Empire in the Middle Ages. Mystics and human­ists lived here as did reformers and first-class arti­sans. Johannes Gutenberg devel­oped his first printing press in the shadow of the cathedral. Goethe and Herder studied at the Univer­sity. 1681 the city was occu­pied by Louis XIV and remained French until 1871 (Franco-German War). After the 1st World War, the city fell back to France. The historic center on the Grande Isle consists of picturesque half-timbered houses from the 16th and 17th centuries. The impres­sive cathedral, one of the most signif­icant monu­ments of Western archi­tec­ture, towers at its center. The entire old town has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Germany's oldest holiday route runs through the northern Black Forest and is part of the Bundess­traße 500, which begins in Baden-Baden and climbs up steeply to the main ridge of the northern Black Forest, reaching it at Bühler­höhe. On a rock there is a small church of St. Mary, popu­larly known as the Adenauer Chapel, with glass windows worth seeing. When the weather is clear, one has a comprehen­sive view over the Rhine plain to the Vosges.

From Bühler­höhe, the elevated road runs from 800 to over 1000 meters above sea level. Near Sand am Mehliskopf an all-weather bob run is in oper­a­tion year round. Here is also the junc­tion to the nearby Schwarzenbachtalsperre and to the cross-country skiing centre Herrenwies.
Below the highest mountain in the northern Black Forest, the 1164-metre-high Hornisgrinde, the road reaches the almost circular Mummelsee, around which leads a short plank track.

The admin­is­tra­tion of the Black Forest National Park, which the Black Forest High Road crosses over long distances, is located in the nature conser­va­tion centre at Ruhestein. To the west of Ruhestein, the only via ferrata in the northern Black Forest leads over the Karlsruher Grat. A few kilome­tres further south along the road lies the Lothar Trail, which demon­s­trates the consequences of hurricane Lothar. Over the heights of the Schliffkopf and the Kniebis the road finally leads to Freu­denstadt, where it ends.

At 1163 metres, the highest mountain in the Nordschwalzwald is an elongated ridge. In the Black Forest Grinden are tree­less moist heaths on a plateau, which were formed after the clearing of the primary forest. However, the high moor on the Hornisgrinde is natu­rally unforested. From the large car park at Mummelsee a nature trail with informa­tion boards leads across the summit level. The moor is crossed on a wooden path. (there and back: 4.8 kilome­ters, 1:30 hour, up and down: 130 meters)

The romantic wine-growing town southwest of Baden Baden was located on the Roman road from Strasbourg to Mainz. The magnif­i­cent houses and the partially preserved city wall bear witness to the wealth of the Middle Ages. Above the ceme­tery there is a statue of Erwin von Steinbach, who was involved in the construc­tion of Strasbourg Cathedral as a builder, and died in Strasbourg in 1318. If you walk from Baden Baden, you pass the cosy Walde­necksee. Via walkways and narrow paths one follows the forest sports trail after the hut to Varnhalt. (There: 8.4 kilome­ters, 2 hours, up: 140 meters, down: 250 meters)

The 670 meter high mountain four kilome­ters east of Baden Baden offers a great view over the Rhine Valley. It is named after the ancient Roman god of trade, to whom a Roman votive stone found on the summit is dedicated. If you don't want to go up on one of the many hiking trails, you can take the Merkurbergbahn from 1913. At the lookout tower there is a mountain inn. A hiking trail leads through the species-rich mixed forests and on to the bizarre rocks at the Battert. (return 16,8 kilome­ters, 5:30 hours, up and down: 680 meters)

The histor­ical capital of the lower Murg Valley lies on both sides of the Murg River. Gernsbach has grown in size due to the rafting of logs on the Murg. Today the small town is a climatic health resort with beau­tiful hiking possi­bil­i­ties. In the west the mountain cone of the Merkur forms a striking backdrop, in the east the 908 meter high mountain Teufelsmühle borders the valley, which opens to the northwest to the Rhine plain. A hiking trail leads from Baden Baden via Schloss Eber­stein to Gernsbach railway station, from where the return journey begins. (there and back: 41 kilome­ters, 4 hours, up: 404 meters, down: 400 meters)

The baroque Karl Theodor Bridge is one of Germany's oldest bridge build­ings and was first mentioned in 1248. There were many previous wooden build­ings, but they were repeat­edly destroyed by drifting ice floes. It was built in its present form in 1788, but towards the end of the Second World War two pillars were blown up by the Wehrmacht to stop the advancing Allied troops. Already in 1947 the bridge was completely recon­structed. At the southern end of the Old Bridge stands the medieval bridge gate with its 28-metre-high double towers. Orig­inally it was part of the city fortifica­tions. Bridge duty was paid at the gate, in case of danger it could be closed by a trap gate.

With the mountain railway you can go up to the Königstuhl and enjoy the fantastic views over the city and the Rhine plain up to the Palatinate Forest. The lower cable car, one of the most modern mountain railways in Germany, starts at the Kornmarkt in the old town and goes via the Castle to the Molkenkur. From there, you take one of the oldest electrically oper­ated mountain railways to the Königstuhl.

The castle ruin high above the old town of Heidelberg is one of the most famous ruins in Germany and the city's landmark. The forti­fied castle from the 13th century was converted into the magnif­i­cent resi­dence of the Palatinate Electors in the Renais­sance. After the destruc­tion of 1689 and 1693 by the French, the castle was restored only hesi­tantly. In 1764, a devastating fire after lightning struck sealed all efforts. The building was abandoned and the ruin was used as a quarry for the new Schwet­zingen Summer Palace and later for the citi­zens of Heidelberg. At the end of the 18th century, the picturesque ruin was discov­ered by literary figures as a symbol of transience. During the Napoleonic Wars it was reinterpreted as a patri­otic monu­ment.

The name comes from a time when all students had to study the seven liberal arts, which were combined under the subject philosophy, before starting their studies. It was prob­ably not so much the scho­lars as the students who discov­ered the path as an ideal place for romantic walks and undis­turbed togeth­er­ness. For the first 700 meters the lower half leads steep and winding through one of the most expen­sive resi­den­tial areas in Heidelberg. Then it cont­inues on nearly even grounds . The Philoso­pher's Garden offers the best view over the Neckar to Heidelberg's old town, the Königstuhl and the castle, but also out into the Rhine plain.

When the abbey was conse­crated in 774, Emperor Charle­magne was person­ally present with his family and court. Later he raised the abbey to one of his most important impe­rial monas­teries. Three build­ings of the formerly large complex remain: a frag­ment of the Nazarius basilica, a section of the monastery wall and the famous Königshalle. When Lorsch Monastery was declared a World Heritage Site in 2014, the monastery areas were linked in terms of landscape archi­tec­ture. An herbal garden was also created – according to the spec­ifica­tions of 1,200-year-old Lorsch pharma­copoeia.

The city on the southern end of the Middle Rhine is also the capital of the Rheingau, one of the most important wine regions in Germany. At the same time, Rüdesheim has become a magnet for corpo­rate outings and coach tours. The count­less wine bars in the Dros­sel­gasse are popu­lated by cheerful drinkers. In the shops of Käthe Wohlfahrt Christmas deco­ra­tions and cuckoo clocks can be bought all year round. The Nied­erwald Monu­ment rises high above the city and can be reached by hiking or by cable car. The more than ten-meter-high statue of Germania was erected in 1871 after the war against France and till today it stares threat­en­ingly towards the West.

The castle on an island in the Rhine is like the Marksburg and the castle Boppard one of the few unde­stroyed and hardly changed castles in the Upper Middle Rhine Valley. It has been built by Ludwig the Bavarian, who at the beginning of the 13th century was also Count Pala­tine and German Emperor. Since he needed a lot of money for this office, he had a customs duty castle built in the Rhine to profit from the heavy traffic on the river. However, the baroque tower helmet, which today char­ac­ter­izes the appear­ance, dates only from 1714. One hundred years later, on New Year's Eve 1813/14, the castle suddenly became the focus of world history, when the Prus­sian Field Marshal Blücher in a top secret action with 60,000 soldiers, 20,000 horses and as many cannons crossed the Rhine at Kaub to hunt Napoleon Bonaparte's troops.

Already in the medieval ages dwarves, nymphs and mountain spirits were blamed for the dangerous currents and echoes at the 130 meters high Lorelei rock . The beau­tiful maiden however, is an inven­tion of the poet Clemens Brentano. He describes Lore Lay as a girl from Bacharach, who is consid­ered a witch because of her beauty. She is forced to join a monastery, but on her way, out of lovesick­ness she plunged from the rock named after her into the Rhine. Brentano's ballad touched the romantic feeling of his time and trig­gered further Loreley stories. The most famous poem was made by Heinrich Heine, in which Loreley, like an antique siren, capti­vates the Rhine sailors with her song and beauty, which is why they perish in the dangerous current on the rocky reef.

The 320 kilometer long hiking trail follows the Middle Rhine Valley on the Eastern side. It starts in Bonn and after 17 days ends in Rüdesheim. The mark is a blue rectangle with a white “R” styl­ized as a river. From almost every place along the Rhine there are paths leading to the Rheinsteig. The longest and most beau­tiful is the 17th day from St. Goar­shausen to Kaub. Here you can expe­r­i­ence the Middle Rhine Valley in all its splendor. Vine­yards, quiet side valleys and magnif­i­cent view points – espe­cially the Loreley – make the hike unique. (21 kilome­ters, 6:30 hours, up: 753 meters, down: 750 meters)

The best views over the large Rhine loop and the vine­yards of the Boppard Hamm can be admired from the Gedeonseck, to which a chairlift runs from Boppard. There's a nice restau­rant at the top. In the hinter­land begins one of the largest forests of Rhine­land-Palatinate, through which many hiking trails lead. Directly on the steep slope below the Gedeonseck, a via ferrata has been set up that offers hikers who are free from giddi­ness and well-equipped a climbing expe­r­i­ence with a magnif­i­cent view. (There and back: 5 kilome­ters, 2:30 hours, up and down: 260 meters)

The small town lies on the Rhine between Bonn and the mouth of the Ahr. The Romans already maintained a castle here. However, the origins are pre-Roman. The city's landmark is the Apol­linaris Church, a neo-gothic jewel built by Cologne cathedral master builder Zwirner. The focus of world history was on Remagen at the end of the Second World War, when the Allies took posses­sion of the only intact Rhine bridge and were able to cont­inue their triumphal march on Berlin. The bridge collapsed ten days later. Today, a peace museum is housed in the bridge pillar on the left bank of the Rhine.

Since the 19th century, the Rolandsw­erth Rolandsbogen has been the epitome of Rhenish romanticism. So it was obvious that the Bonn-Cologne railway chose the loca­tion as the final station. The station should be as close to the Rhine as possible in order to facil­i­tate the change to the steam­ships. At the same time from there one has a fantastic view of the Drachenfels. From the very beginning, the station concourse was designed as a clas­sicist recep­tion building for aristo­crats and celebri­ties. Indeed, Queen Victoria, Kaiser Wilhelm II, Bismarck, Ludwig Uhland, the Brothers Grimm, Niet­zsche, Brahms, Liszt and many others came. After the Second World War, the Federal Railways wanted to demolish the “over­sized building”. Instead, at the initia­tive of Hans Arp, it became an artist's studio. In 2005, the Amer­ican star archi­tect Richard Meier added a new building. Since 2007, the Arp Museum has housed various collec­tions and exhi­bi­tions.

At 157 meters the third highest church in the world is consid­ered the master­piece of Gothic archi­tec­ture. Its west façade with the two towers has an area of over 7100 square meters and is thus the largest in the world. The laying of the foun­da­tion stone took place in 1248, after the relics of the Three Magi were trans­ferred from Milan to Cologne. The Dreiköni­genschrein is set up in the choir room and is the largest gold­smith's work of the Middle Ages. After centuries of construc­tion stoppage, the cathedral was not completed until 1880. The mighty church survived the Second World War despite massive bomb­ings and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996.

The Roman-Germanic Museum shows archae­o­log­ical finds from the times of the ancient Rome. Among the most important exhibits are the Dyon­isos mosaic from the dining room of a Roman villa and the tomb of veteran Lucius Poblicius. Both can be seen from the square in front of the cathedral through a glass pane. The Ludwig Munic­ipal Museum contains the Ludwig couple's collec­tion, which has attracted worldwide atten­tion. Art objects of the 20th century are on display – from Picasso to Roy Licht­enstein and Gerhard Richter.

The old town south of the cathedral has quite a high Kölsch brewery density, medieval alleys and the historic Cologne town hall. Nearby is the fragrance museum in the Farina House, which is inexorably linked to the famous perfume “Eau de Cologne”. The Italian perfumer Johann Maria Farina created the scent that reminded him of oranges, lemons, grapefruit and berg­amot, cedrat, the flowers and herbs of his home­land. The reopened “Dufthaus 4711” awaits you in Glockengasse, with a fountain from which Kölnisch Wasser bubbles.